2000W PWM AC Motor Speed Control Module Dimmer Speed Regulator AC 50-220V 2000W(max) 25A SCR Constant Adjustable Voltage Regulator (1 Pack)

These rheostats do exactly what they are supposed to do, though there are a few details you'll want to be aware of in your application.First off, they do get hot. The more wattage you control with them, the hotter they will get. So you need to make sure you bear that in mind and provide the necessary air space and ventilation, and perhaps even orientation. Essentially, a typical single gang box will work fine for the air space and ventilation and mount it with the heatsink above the circuit board, on the orientation.As for the wiring diagram, there is one provided in the pictures on the Amazon item page. Essentially, you connect your lead (should be a black wire with standard 120V house wiring), to the inner "In" terminal and the neutral to the outer "In" terminal, then do the the same on the load side, keeping the inner and outer details the same. (You can look at the back side of the circuit board and note the outer terminals are actually connected by a long solder path, so they are the neutral.) In other words, if you look at the four wires, after installed, from left to right, the neutral "In" will be at the far left and the neutral "Out" will be at the far right with the lead to load taking the left to right inner path ("In" and "Out") between them.There is also no mounting hardware included with these units, so that will be up to you to figure out and provide, in accordance with your particular application. In my case, I modified a standard thin metal "blank" face plate for each rheostat and box, by drilling a perfectly fit centered hole for the threaded shaft with a precisely positioned tiny hole beside it, essentially imitating the way the rheostat "pot" is mounted to the circuit board (definitely only drill your holes as big as necessary, no bigger). The tiny hole is for the little metal tab beside the shaft that keeps the pot from rotating when you tighten the nut. So, you will need to firmly hold the pot against the back side of it's mounting bracket to keep that tab engaged while you remove the outside nut, put your cover plate on, and then put the nut back on the shaft and tighten it as before, only now with the cover plate in-between. (The little tab meant to prevent the pot from rotating is just long enough to hook in the tiny hole of outer cover plate so you'll only need one wrench and pressure with your finger from behind to loosen and tighten the nut.)The knob can be easily pressed onto the shaft in any position, so that will depend on the orientation you need, or prefer. In my case, my boxes and covers are vertical, so after figuring out how far the inner shaft turns, I turned it counter-clockwise, all the way to the left and then pressed the knob on with the mark at about 7 o'clock for the "off" position, which then results in the mark being at 5 o'clock when at full power.

This works as a light dimmer or speed control. It is difficult to mount. The only mounting option is to use the potentiometer shaft, but it is very short.There is an undocumented trimpot on the PCB. I don't know what it does, and didn't experiment to find out.---- later addition ----The heat sink gets hot with a 9A load... hot enough to soften the PLA box I mounted it in.Why is the SCR heatsink is getting so hot under such a light load?There are several vendors on Amazon selling this device. None of them document the trimpot. It is probably used to adjust the timing of the trigger circuit, since it will depend on the maons voltage.To be fair to these vendors, I would like to refute some video reviews that claim the device doesn't work because the voltage out doesn't change with the control potentiometwr setting. These are simple SCR devices that vary the conducted power by adjusting the conduction angle -- when in the AC cycle does the SCR (actually, probably a triac) turn on. The peak voltage, which is measured by their instruments, doesn't significantly change.

Used to control an old chemical stirring equipment. The original speed control was just a wire wound rheostat. That no longer worked. This speed control worked great. It even has an adjustable setting rheostat to set the minimum speed on the motor.

Es un buen producto, pero no controla el voltaje en la primera media vuelta de la perilla, debería funcionar de 0 a 100% de forma lineal en todo el rango del barrido de la perilla

I used this to control the speed of a ventilation fan. I love that the little trim potentiometer allows a person to adjust the range of the main potentiometer to match the load (which in my case is very small).I actually modified this circuit by substituting a thermistor for the main potentiometer. This way when the temperature of the enclosure rises, the fan speed also increases. A thermostatic bypass takes the fan up to full speed if needed.

just what I needed

The replacement control that I received today seems to be working fine.

None of them worked as they should have..... Missed my window to return them. :-(